Parisian designer duo Kévin Nompeix and Florentin Glémarec presented EGONlab’s Spring/Summer 2023 fashion show, titled “WONDERLAND – THE EGONLAB PLAYGROUND”. The seasonal and genderless collection follows HYPEBEAST’s interview with the EGONlab. creative directors, who explained how the label “brings generations together through romance and rebellion” and draws inspiration from the “masculine and feminine elements” of early 20th-century Viennese Expressionist painter Egon Schiele. These notions come into play in EGONlab. SS23, a collection that blurs the spectrum of genres, serving up a mix of elements that come together for a story about layering, textures, playful fashion and self-expression.
Sparkly floral intarsia knit cardigans tucked into distressed high-rise baggy jeans showed how EGONlab. can serve the hard and soft edges of fashion together, and it set the tone for much of the brand’s SS23 collection. The shorts, finished high and tight on the thigh, echoed those on Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 show during Milan Fashion Week, as they were also made from leather. Here, EGONlab. paired the shorts with a double-breasted leather blazer and white tank tops, with the prominent metal front zipper causing a juxtaposition between the romance and rebellion the brand is known for.
Elsewhere, denim jeans are layered with a distressed asymmetrical skirt, drawing on trends set by Y/Project and Glenn Martens’ Diesel, as well as JW Anderson of late. The graphics leaned into the collection’s name, serving up a wonderland depiction of a pig in a ski suit holding a mushroom as the friendly animal swoops down a slope printed on a camp collar shirt, while a mole rat that looked like Rufus from Kim possible was split into a pastel ringtone t-shirt, paired with denim that sported cargo pockets and exaggerated seams.
Elsewhere, a bunny graphic rubbed shoulders with brand and collection monikers on an oversized striped knit sweater, while cobalt and navy argyle knits made genderless tracksuit tops and shorts paired with sequined tops reds for a glow of campness. The Miu Miu twin set that stole the internet last season has also clearly inspired brands including EGONlab. — to create their own hit look, and here it was a denim two-piece split between a cropped, sleeveless denim jacket sitting alongside fringed, wide-leg denim shorts.
Add the belted but open trench coat, patent leather thigh high boots and baggy blazers thrown over bags or worn open with belts over the shoulder, and EGONlab. SS23 presented a campy and kitschy range that took us into its own fun playground.
Take a look at EGONlab. SS23 in the gallery above, and stay tuned to HYPEBEAST for more Paris Fashion Week content as the days go by.
In case you missed it, check out HYPEBEAST’s interview with Mr. Bailey and Alessandro Sartori, in which we discussed the rise of a new ZEGNA and its latest sneaker collaboration.