Fendi Spring 2023 Menswear Collection

A year ago, Silvia Fendi kicked off the current craze for man bellies in fashion with her tailored crop top for SS22. When asked today if it’s satisfying to see a Fendi-led trend ricochet through the fashion sphere, she replied, “Yeah, it is!” When we did it was very well received and there were so many comments on Instagram. And now was the time to do it. But if you watch all of our shows, there’s always something that might be a bit disturbing for some.

Today’s main Fendi disruption in fashion, as named by Silvia, was Look 27’s pale greige coat in ultralight technical gabardine. Thanks to the seamless ultrasonically bonded inside pockets, the coated buttons, the flow of the material and the slightly frizzy serrations at each shoulder, it looked more like a shirt dress. During the editing process, she said, her team repeatedly suggested she be relegated to quasi-rans: “But I said ‘No, that’s my favorite, you can’t not take it off.'”

Her team was right in that the intriguing ambiguity of look 27 hinged on perceptions of gender signifiers in clothing, whereas the rest of the collection was firmly gender-focused but often deeply ambiguous around the pivot of materiality. With the exception of a shirtless tuxedo (much to my co-workers at Runway Towers chagrin, the only glimpse of the midriff), most of the looks were rooted in a 90s Cali workwear/skatewear aesthetic. , with a tote track skateboard. . What seemed like a denim-heavy collection wasn’t always the case: the look 34 patch-pocket coat was crafted from sheared mink, while the slightly more obviously look 10 jacket was crafted from strips of tinted sheepskin. What looked like crisp cotton khakis turned out to be cut from ultra-fine nappa.

Aside from these house specialty trompe l’oeils, there was a dialogue between texture and softness in the play of fringed denim and moccasin against this seamless ultrasonic bonding. Jewels included Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s nugget necklaces, friendship bracelets and pocket watches: bags ranging from denim Peekaboos with water bottle holders to double-F recycled plastic bags to buckets with removable liners which were desirable in spades. Aside from the loafers, the main interest in the shoes came from hand-beaded skate sneakers and double-F pressed molded slides that were replicated as cute keychains.

As for this abstract pattern, it began, Silvia said, as a series of cowhide-inspired patches that morphed during the creative process into a consideration of the abstract patterns of weather maps and barometric pressure systems. . In addition to the slits in the shoulders of this ambiguous shirt-dress/coat, there were perforations that acted as seams throughout the collection. Along with the beautiful short-crowned bucket hats, these were designed to allow heat to flow away from the body of the wearer: that they could simultaneously ignite the eye of the beholder was by no means trivial. “I wanted a feeling of pressure,” Fendi said. This pressure has in turn generated pleasure, drawn from looking at a collection that is both highly sophisticated and powerfully wearable.


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